Vegan Mint Chocolate Chip Gelato

Round and nutty in the body, sharp and cool across the top, with splinters of dark chocolate that break cold between the teeth and leave a dry bitterness behind.

Vegan Mint Chocolate Chip Gelato: pale ivory flecked with dark chocolate, broken shards of dark chocolate
Prep
46 min
Freeze
4 h
Yield
1000 g
Difficulty
Medium

Nothing in the mouthfeel gives away the missing dairy. It comes off the spoon soft and round, because the fat runs at 10.5 percent and comes from cashew paste and coconut instead of cream, coating the palate and slowing the melt much as milk fat would. Menthol lifts first, cool and clean at the front, and it clears quickly, which is when the chocolate takes over: 85 g per kilo drizzled into the churn, setting into thin splinters that snap cold and leave a dry bitterness at the back of the mouth. That bitterness is what lingers, with the oat and cashew sweetness behind it, and no chalkiness anywhere in the finish.

That built in sugar is why sucrose sits at 80 g, its floor. Dextrose at 60 g and glucose powder at 15 g finish the sugar system, total sugars close at 19.64 percent and POD at 164.83, well clear of the 195 ceiling. This one is not limited by sweetness. It is limited by what the chocolate brings with it.

The chocolate choice is not a preference either. Milk chocolates carry 16 to 17 percent non fat milk solids, and MSNF is capped at 1 percent on a plant base, so a single milk chocolate would break the sheet on the first spoon, quite apart from not being vegan. Dark 70 percent is the only one that fits. Protein at 2.5 percent comes from 63 g of cashew paste plus 349 g of oat milk, since neither mint nor chocolate contributes much of it.

Ingredients

Makes 1000 g of finished base.

IngredientGramsHome measure
Oat Milk (Barista)3491 1/2 cups
Water1652/3 cup
Coconut Milk1401/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon
Dark Chocolate 70%85
Sugar (Sucrose)801/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon
Cashew Paste 100%63
Dextrose (Glucose)601/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon
Mint35
Glucose Powder151 1/2 tablespoons
Carob Seed Flour4
Soy Lecithin3
Salt1

Method

Mint leaves infused off the heat for 15 minutes, base aged cold, chocolate streamed in during churning

  1. 1Whisk every dry ingredient together first: sugars, milk powder, stabiliser and salt. Dry-blending them stops the stabiliser clumping when it meets liquid.
  2. 2Warm the liquids to 40 C (104 F), then rain the dry mix in while whisking hard.
  3. 3Heat to 82 C (180 F) and hold for 2 minutes so the stabiliser hydrates.
  4. 4Melt the chocolate to 45 C (113 F) and stir it into the hot base off the heat, then blend 60 seconds until glossy.
  5. 5Off the heat, whisk in the paste, then blend 60 seconds so the fat emulsifies instead of separating.
  6. 6Chill in an ice bath to under 5 C (41 F) within 2 hours. Slow cooling is where bacteria and coarse crystals both start.
  7. 7Age 6 to 12 hours in the fridge under 5 C (41 F). This is when the stabiliser and the milk protein take up water.
  8. 8Freeze in a shallow metal pan 2 to 3 cm deep, breaking the crystals with a fork every 30 to 40 minutes, 4 to 6 times.
  9. 9Freeze firm, then temper 10 to 15 minutes in the fridge before scooping.

The balance

All six against the professional range for Vegan Base.

Total solids38.3%
3542
Sugars19.6%
1824
Fat10.5%
813
MSNF0.0%
01
PAC255
210300
POD165
129195

Water at 61.67 percent against a 65 ceiling is the quiet constraint here. A mint infusion wants a mostly aqueous liquid in the hot stage, which is why there is 165 g of free water on the sheet on top of 349 g of oat milk, and the solver had to leave enough room under the ceiling that the infusion did not tip it over. Fat at 10.5 in an 8 to 13 band is the other governing number, and it is assembled rather than poured: the 85 g of chocolate carries about 3.2 percent of it, 140 g of coconut milk and 63 g of cashew paste bring the rest, and 3 g of soy lecithin holds the emulsion where casein would normally do that job. Carob seed flour is only 4 g precisely because the lecithin is there. PAC 254.63 sits mid band, so the base firms at a rate that gives you time to work the chocolate in.

Technique note

Mint is the classic infusion that turns bitter if handled badly, and every rule here is about that. Do not boil it. Bring the liquid to 85 C to pasteurise, kill the heat, drop in whole leaves and never chopped ones, because cutting releases chlorophyll and bitter tannins, cover, infuse 15 minutes maximum, then strain without pressing hard. Chill fast: past 20 minutes the green note turns into something closer to black tea. The natural colour is a greenish beige, not neon green, and that is worth knowing before you decide something went wrong. The chocolate does not go into the base. Melt the 85 g to 45 C and pour it in a thin stream over the gelato while it is already churning at around minus 6 C, so it sets into shards on contact. Melt it into the base instead and you have a mint gelato with chocolate in it, which is a different product.

If it goes wrong

The mint tastes bitter and medicinal, like stewed tea.

The leaves were boiled, chopped, or left in too long. All three release the tannins and chlorophyll that the 15 minute window exists to avoid.

Whole leaves, off the heat, 15 minutes covered, strained without pressing, then chilled fast.

No chips at all, just a brown mint gelato.

The chocolate was stirred into the base instead of streamed into the churning mix, so it dispersed rather than setting.

Hold the 85 g of chocolate at 45 C and stream it in only once the mix is already frozen and moving, at around minus 6 C.

The colour is pale beige and looks wrong next to what you expected.

Nothing is wrong. Infused mint with no dye gives a greenish beige, and there is no colouring anywhere on this sheet.

Expect the colour. If you want it greener, spinach or spirulina is cosmetic and neither is in the balance, so keep any addition under a gram.

Allergens: gluten, milk, soy, tree nuts

Sources
  • https://www.nutritionvalue.org/Chocolate%2C_70-85%25_cacao_solids%2C_dark_nutritional_value.html
  • https://www.icecreamscience.com/blog/vegan-ice-cream-selecting-a-non-dairy-fat
  • https://icecreamcalc.com/stabilizers/
  • https://under-belly.org/sugars-in-ice-cream/

Want to change an ingredient and watch the numbers move? Open the free balancer